*****

Miu Mui’s color palette for this Fall 2015-16 instantly caught my attention; mustard yellow, burgundy, pops of bright yellow, etc. It’s a very retro palette, with creative fabric and texture combinations. I thought it was clever how they combined tweed with 3-d snakeskin  print on patent leather. The 70’s silhouettes are cute, even the blouse with the huge flounce going across the chest. The shoes were so kitsch and every skirt combination, although “librarian-esque”, had a sexy vibe. I loved the atmosphere too, the location was conservative and creative, which really brought out the nostalgic notes of the designs. The atmosphere wasn’t too distracting, and complimented the overall theme. Overall, the  creativity, and the color palette was unique. 4 out of 5 is my rating for Mui Mui this season.

*****

Set in a romantic cathedral in God knows where, Sarah Burton showcased her amazingly romantic and ethereal Fall/Winter 2015-2016 collection. The pieces ranged from leather coats with a sort of lacquered finish, to fluffy ultra feminine pink, red and black frocks. Its interesting how she incorporates pink into her color palette for Fall. It didn’t over power the line up. There were rosy, flouncy,  ruffly and flirty dresses, and ooh… pleats! I love the way Sarah Burton still embodies the SPIRIT of the late Alexander Mcqueen, while still representing her point of view quite nicely. Although his legacy has a powerful impact on fashion, her designs can hold her own; Sarah has fierce design aesthetic. It  just melds with Alexander Mcqueens style like butter on toast. There’s one thing I have to painfully admit. Sarah’s take on Mcqueen is a lot easier to swallow. Don’t get me wrong, I love Alexander Mcqueen’s hard edginess, but the girly-girl in me loves Sarah’s ultra-feminine vibe. Although some dresses just looked like a revamped version of pieces from her spring 2014 line; I really loved the lines and form flattering silhouettes. I give this a 3 out of 5. I always look forward to her shows, but I think the risk of being “one note” is teetering.

*****

MOSCHINO….nuff said,

I try not to be bias for designers that have an ultra creative approach, but I couldn’t help it this time, at least it’s warranted though. The minute I saw that “spray can” purse, (looks like a can but made out of patent leather) I was hooked. First off, the 90’s tribute made me nostalgic. Looney Tunes on denim and baseball jerseys…classic! The Teddy Bear jacket was adorable, but the fitted dresses were surprisingly plain to me. He featured Bubble Jackets, which for some reason always seem bulky to me. I like the fact that he bubbled the skirt, and shirt, then combined it with knee high boots…clever. The huge book bags made me smile…cause I want one. The overall energy of the show was electric. Everything flowed nicely…. with that that big ass boom box at the end of the runway. The combination of fabrics was interesting too (gold and denim). The “flava flav-esque” clock was sooooo 80’s and I loved it. The jewelry though, a bit clunky, yet I understood the overall message. There was a sort of grade school essence to it all; my school, old school, new school, whatever it is…I get it. I GET YOU JEREMY!!! I thought this collection was pretty cool, but since I’ve followed Moschino for years, I can honestly say he didn’t bring the “Fire”. With that said…3 out of 5, but I still love you baby! I can’t wait for next season!

*****

Why not start with CHANEL? Overall I felt as though Karl touched on all bases. He put his focus on the classic silhouettes and fabrics that made CHANEL Iconic, but now he transformed her image into something modern and approachable. Honestly I don’t believe Mrs. Coco would approve of her collections new direction. Coco loved the classy sophisticated refined woman. Karl is focused on the modern “edgy” woman. The jackets are amazingly cool. He stayed true to the tweed, silk, and sparkles that is CHANEL, but he steered towards the ever popular bubble jackets with creative sewn quilted detailing. The hiker jackets or windbreakers were my favorite, along with the matching handbags. Maybe last year’s collection had a more humorous note, but it appears this season the collection had a nostalgic approach. Wait, I spoke too soon. I remember seeing a “stack of plates” clutch.  And O.K, I get that Fall tends to have a lot of drab colors, but yeesh! More gray and more black? Thank you fashion Gods for inspiring Karl to inject a bit of white, red, pink, purple, burgundy and taupe into the mix. The footwear didn’t impress me too much. Something about it just screamed grand ma ma. I thought the full length full body knit dresses were sexy. I could see myself wearing a couple pieces from this collection. The dresses had a play on textures combining light silk and tweed. The general public fancied many looks from CHANEL this season; he appealed to all age brackets conservative or not. The entire show was impressive. I noticed how more than ever, designers are ditching the sole runway theme and going for a more theatric style; inviting the viewer into the WORLD that resides in the designers head upon creation. Hooray for CHANEL, they get a 3 out of 5!